Java 3.0
Coffee. Innocent enough right? The magical little beans that help many of us begin our day, and sometimes end a delicious meal in the evening. How could a coffee bean become such a cultural bone of contention?
A brief view of coffee from around the world reveals many things. Keep in mind that the magical bean was first discovered in Ethiopia. Due to its utter awesomeness, it began a journey which is documentable from some point in the 1400’s. A journey that took it on a trip around the world.
In mostly chronological order and over the next 4 centuries, the bean travelled to Yemen, Mecca, Medina, the Middle East, Karnataka (southern India), Persia, Turkey, North Africa, the Balkans, Southeast Asia, India; then the usual suspects, Italy, France, UK, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Amsterdam, the rest of Europe and the Americas. It was welcomed everywhere. Brewed according to the culture of the location in which it found itself. A cunning Netherlander even managed to procure some of the actual coffee bushes that produced the magical beans, and placed them in a greenhouse in the Amsterdam Botanical gardens; where they did quite well. This marks the first record of European cultivation of the bean.
What follows are observations from my own travels and experiences and conversations at home, with people from those places, about coffee.
As one who remembers her first sips of coffee at age 9 (just a little sip) from ‘ya baba’s’ cup. As one who when she grew up, was a proud user of my own coffee grinder. Grinding fresh everyday. As one who has an appreciation for the different tastes and flavours of different beans and roasts. These appreciations and desires for another taste on my palate, can change seasonably or depending on who else I’m making the brew for, or where I am on the planet at the time. I’m a flexible and curious girl! As one who appreciates them all. I’ve learned a few things; not necessarily just about coffee; but about coffee as a medium for the point of view, that even the humble magical bean can become a reason for cultural one-upmanship.
As coffee is a worldwide beverage now, I happily concede that each group/person certainly has the right to prefer one roast or bean or method of brewing. That is totally cool, and for the most part, it is the thing that makes it interesting. These preferences and methodology in brewing tell a great deal about a country’s history and the national cultural palate, and they are important to acknowledge and accept if you are travelling/visiting. It is always interesting to experience and hopefully enjoy a different perspective…on Everything, including Coffee.
So far during my years long European sojourn, I’ve learned that:
*There are as many ways of consuming coffee as there are nations and cultures on this planet.
*There is no more ‘correct’ way to consume coffee, than there is a correct way to enjoy a sunset.
*Every region thinks THEIR methodology is the best, and everyone else on the planet are tasteless idiots.
*It is best when possible to adhere to local standards when consuming coffee outside of your own abode. (Sometimes even WITHIN your own abode if you consume the bean with a friend from the region you are inhabiting). HA!
I’ve enjoyed the thick heavy Turkish brew, while drinking it with a journalist friend at the now closed Algiers Coffee House in Harvard Square, Cambridge, MA. I visited it several times after that until the room closed permanently. It was delicious and a different experience, but not one I could adopt for every day. “Coffee should be black as hell, strong as death and sweet as love.” - An anonymous Turk is quoted. Source - coolcoffeecats.com
I enjoy a nice double espresso shot after dinner, accompanied by a Grappa or Armagnac or Cognac. However, in Italy when my dear friend and I ventured out for a coffee one morning (she ordered for me), I received a single espresso shot. Basically 2 sips of coffee. As I looked into the cup, somehow hoping that my inquiring gaze would make more coffee appear in my cup; it was explained to me. “This is Italian coffee!” Mind, I might have had a cappuccino if I’d ordered for myself, but that is on me. I wasn’t complaining about the coffee. It was yummy. I just wanted more! 2 sips, no matter how strong the brew; is NOT going to get my eyelids to rise, or give me the required dose of dutch courage needed to start my day.
France seems to be a little more chill about coffee choices. I get no raised eyebrows when I request a Café Creme or a Café au lait, as long as I don’t do so at the wrong time of day. In other words, the French are quite capable of making a good cup of espresso, which can be had at any time of the day. However, having a cup of coffee with milk seems a bit much after a full dinner, so espresso at night is generally the cultural rule. I have no problem with that. They don’t however feel the need to explain that it is ‘French’ coffee, and that distinction is VERY MUCH appreciated.
The English… ah the English. Even though the island nation is historically steeped in tea, coffee is quite popular there, but they have no nationalistic style or claim of ownership of it in that area. In fact, most Brits drink instant coffee, mostly Nescafé which makes me very sad. Or they opt to follow their American cousins, ordering at Cafés lattes, mocha lattes, or things with a lot of syrupy additions.
We won’t mention the horrific coffee pods. No need to go there.
I’ve had coffee in Germany, and had no problem with it. Made with a medium roasted bean, it is usually prepared with a drip method. I’ve had coffee in Greece, where it is usually boiled rather than brewed, percolated or poured over. Jamaican coffee is SUPERB, and perfectly suited to tropical climates, feelings or inclinations, as is Hawaiian Kona. These beans are difficult to come by in Europe, though in Paris there are a few shops which occasionally stock them, or one can at least special order if one is so inclined financially.
Americans. Well, I recall there used to be some excellent coffees, coffee shops, and places to buy excellent beans. Some are still available, some have been disappeared. The propensity for those gallon size containers of coffee, is a turn off. In the USA, I find that coffee is imbibed more like water. How can it function as a stimulant if one drinks it all day? Starbucks is an abomination and Dunkin’ Donuts is a joke. How is that for coffee snobbery? I believe that the reason for all the different syrupy flavourings is because if served bare naked, the coffee tastes burnt. Over roasted and over brewed, therefore needing the rescue of a chemical stew; but I digress. America, you do you.
My point here, is that even the magical yet humble coffee bean, as interpreted throughout the world, has shown me a level of nationalistic pride, even when the product involved (or perhaps especially BECAUSE) has been ‘discovered’ elsewhere and imported and of course, ‘improved upon’.
It’s coffee for heaven’s sake. Can one not desire a teacup’s worth of coffee instead of 2 sips of espresso or a gallon container of sugar water WITHOUT THE JUDGEMENT? There are so many ways of enjoying the bean, yet the hardcore nationalistic approach to it is mind boggling!
In my own kitchens (past and future), there is always room for a Chemex, a French Press and a Moka. Why?
*More delicate and fruity beans, like those from Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania are more acidic, and benefit from STEEPING (French Press), than from percolating or pour over. They are delicious coffees, and quite enjoyable if brewed to their strengths.
*Deeper and darker roasts like French or Italian roasts are perfect for Moka pots. The pressure and heat extract the best elements out of darker roasted coffees while if brewed correctly, cuts down on the bitterness of the roast.
*Pour over pots (Chemex/Melita) usually best for medium to light roasted coffees. Jamaican High Mountain Blue or Hawaiian Kona are excellent beans for these pots.
So, why the coffee snobbery? I mean, I’m just trying to make a good cup of coffee for myself, where I’m staying; to enjoy the range of flavour available to me at the time. I’m not trying to change the national coffee outlook of any country. I just wanted to make a teacup’s worth of coffee in the morning. So, as I am currently a gypsy, I had to acquire a Moka pot (thanks BF) which would allow me to make 6 espresso cups or 2 tea cups of coffee. The tiny pots that many people have here, make 2 espressos. This meant that I would have to drink my 2 sips, then handle the hot pot as I tried to refill it and make another 2 sips!
It is hilarious (though not at all surprising) to be judged in one’s coffee choices. Italians seem to think that it is their own personal invention and those who might prefer something else (in my case, just MORE), are simply not capable of understanding. It is hilarious that because I now take my coffee with a bit of half and half, (when I used to drink it black… before the birth of my ulcer), are looked down upon by those who swill it in gigantic mugs; no milk, no sugar OR drowning in artificial hazelnut and artificially flavoured creamers. As if I were some kind of super coffee wimp. To those who feel that if there is no boiling, percolating or steam pressure involved, then the coffee is in fact only coffee flavoured tea - totally missing the delicately flavoured nuance in an Ethiopian or Kenyan brew. BTW, you can’t really get East African, Hawaiian, or Jamaican coffee in Europe (sauf France), so the opportunity for variety is limited, but the beauty of coffee is that it is easy to accommodate what is available to your taste.
Is this important? No. Is it a view into how people perceive themselves and the importance of their way of life? YES. This is a product that originated on the continent of Africa. Everyone does it differently. Everyone has different expectations of that cup of Joe. There is NO ONE AND ONLY WAY to make coffee! If people can’t embrace the full spectrum of coffee, fine. It is however beyond hubris, to denigrate the way that others prefer their coffee; especially if they are making it at home, and not demanding it be done ‘their way’ at a public location.
I chose coffee for this analysis because I see it as a great example of larger geopolitical and cultural issues. Of presumed ownership, of superiority in taste and preparation. Of how difficult it seems to be to enjoy and in fact revel in the differences in which we approach the enjoyment of something as simple and basic, as a cup of coffee.
Our planet grows smaller everyday. We’ve got war, climate change, violence, viruses and all sorts of other things to deal with. I would think, I would HOPE, that we could all agree that coffee, should not be a dividing point. Yet somehow, the smaller the world gets, the smaller the issues that divide us become.
So international coffee experts! I suggest you untwist your knickers and expand your horizons. All you colonial powers whose kings and queens spent enormous amounts of money importing the spices that the French, Italians, Germans, Scandinavians, Spanish (Spain as opposed to Mexico) don’t really use at all. Ok. Spain does utilise paprika and saffron! Portugal uses a bit more of the precious element of spice in some of their dishes. As for the rest? No cayenne, turmeric, cumin, curry, etc. A little ginger or cinnamon, MAYBE. An exception is England (though they don’t really consider themselves ‘European’, I choose to include them in this discussion) where the demand for a good Vindaloo is high…
Most Europeans do not like spicy food. To the point where even at an African or Indian or Caribbean restaurant in Europe, the food is made just bland enough to be agreeable to the local population. I have cooked for and/or been a guest at parties which were serving ‘ethnic’ food, only to hear ‘C’est trop épicé!’ So one can only assume that the only reason for the intensity of the investment in the spice trade, was the emphasis on the second word… trade. Africa loves and uses spice in their cuisines. The Europeans do not. Asia loves and uses lots of spices in their cuisines as does Mexico and some places in Central America, (home to some of the most heavenly hot peppers), SOME South American countries and many courageous individuals from all nations.
Yet, Europe and the Americas got hooked on coffee, and will not hesitate to tell you why you are doing it wrong if the method is not theirs. Pour-over is better, French Press ok, Moka is the best, blah, blah, blah. If you don’t agree, you are a savage! Haha, okay. Guilty of a bit of hyperbole, yet; just a bit! Even in your own home. Even when you come from a coffee producing country; whose family is from a region near where it was discovered; or who has a greater appreciation of the spectrum of deliciousness. A spectrum which is much more far reaching than the pressurised demitasse dark roast of the two sips they might be used to.
Yes. It’s a small world. Lighten up. You may be exposed to a new experience and like it…or not. However, nationalistic tendencies have no place in the world of coffee. As the French proverb says, “Praise all the gods, drink the wine, and let the world be the world!” Let it be. Have a great day with YOUR favourite cup of Coffee.